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“I ambition bodies would focus on what I do, not what I wear,” Aboriginal Adult Melania Trump lamented on the final day of her abandoned four-country cruise to Africa, which took her aftermost anniversary to Ghana, Malawi, Kenya, and Egypt. She was reacting to criticism of the assembly helmet she had beat beforehand in Kenya.

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It’s a affect any austere actuality would ache with—but it was difficult to account her wish. The objectives of her cruise weren’t acutely defined, and some of her clothes were, well, distracting.

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It was not clothing, but costume. And apparel consistently attracts attention, invites interpretation, and sends its own message.

Take the assembly helmet. That’s a hat with a history. It was broadly beat by European colonial armies in Africa and Asia and by the end of the 19th aeon had additionally become accepted noncombatant abrasion for Westerners in the tropics; it is advised by abounding a attribute of colonial oppression. Why, one can’t advice but wonder, would the aboriginal adult of the United States appetite to lift up that rock?

Furthermore, at the absolute moment she was authoritative her plea, Trump was continuing on the Giza plateau alfresco Cairo; abaft her was the Sphinx and the Abundant Pyramid of the pharaoh Khufu, the alone actual admiration of the age-old world. And with her accoutrements she was inexplicably channeling 1930s, gangster-era Chicago: What abroad to accomplish of the wide, black-belted trousers commutual with a white shirt and a atramentous tie, a menswear-style double-ed anorak draped over her shoulders, and a black-banded fedora on her head?

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I lived in Cairo as a child; I’ve catholic to Egypt abundant times since; I cannot brainstorm what the afflatus for this ability accept been. (In cogent adverse is what Princess Diana wore at the pyramids in 1992: The above pale, desert-appropriate colors, but her flowy mid-calf brim and analogous belted anorak had a demure, around-the-clock breeding that both flattered her and detracted not at all—as did Melania’s—from the breeding abaft her.)

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There was annihilation absolutely amiss with Melania’s Al-Capone-ish get-up: It wasn’t immodest, article to consistently accede in a majority Muslim country. Nor was it head-scratchingly inappropriate or insensitive, like the “I absolutely don’t affliction do u?” anorak she wore to appointment casual accouchement at the Texas-Mexico bound in June.

But it was weird. Not clothing, but costume. And apparel consistently attracts attention, invites interpretation, and sends its own message.

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So yes, I accept quibbles with what Melania Trump arranged for her African adventure. Think of it a effective criticism for approaching forays.

I’ll alpha with her “I’m off to Africa” abandonment outfit, in which she disembarked from her SUV at the Andrews Airforce Base in Maryland and headed for her plane. Her stilettos were bobcat print, her brim leather, her covering suede, in a balmy ocher blush that would accept attenuated accurately with the red-earth airstrips of the African bush. Bobcat print, beastly skins, semi-safari colors—why these sartorial clichés?

Getty ImagesSAUL LOEB

It was an accomplished accouterments for abounding occasions except, in my opinion, aback you’re off on a adept mission to the African continent, and to countries, moreover, as assorted as Ghana, Malawi, Kenya, and Egypt.

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Africa, command large, is not carnival land. It is reductive to exoticize it that way.

Africa, command large, is not carnival land. It is reductive to exoticize it that way. It has active and assorted cities, area added the majority of the continent’s immense citizenry lives. It has its problems for sure, but additionally affluent and agitative a art, music, food, and appearance scenes and cultures.

Consider the sapeurs, the abnormally dressed dandies from the Congo, who in the bosom of war and base abjection are killing it style-wise, in tailored apparel in baroque colors, cottony ties, and ablaze footwear, and accept been accurate in a book, The Gentlemen of Bacongo. (Talk about costumes!) On my contempo travels, a walking bout of Johannesburg’s new hipster neighborhoods and venues was as blood-tingling and abrupt as any carnival walkabout.

Do bodies abrasion carnival garb? Sure. But not everywhere. Dennis Pinto, the Kenyan-born managing administrator of Micato Safaris, parsed the cartography of safari-wear this way: “Growing up in the backcountry in Kenya, anybody wore carnival khakis for applied affidavit and alike in the cities, because wardrobes were bound and we didn’t affair ourselves with appearance aback then. And yes, alike today there’s a ample articulation of bodies in East and southern Africa who abide to do so. My ancestors and I do aback we’re there, and my wife and babe accessorize it to accomplish it attending added stylish.” East and southern Africa. Not West.

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Getty ImagesSAUL LOEB

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Trump’s aboriginal stop on the abstemious was the west African country of Ghana—notable not for its wilderness areas but, historically, for actuality the above point of abandonment for African slaves. Culturally, it is acclaimed for its abounding assorted indigenous groups and their conspicuously ablaze attire, abnormally as beat by the country’s traditional, able affiliated chiefs.

During his affair with Trump, Osabarimba Kwesi Atta II, administrator of the Fante tribe, sported a acme and an exuberantly blooming and black robe—purple, blue, red, hot pink, yellow, green, turquoise. Trump was in high-end carnival (except for the aerial heels): kakhi pants and aphotic olive shirt.

It was elegant; I ambition I had that accouterments for my aing cruise into the bush. But missing was alike the aboriginal nod to the specific African ability area she was a adept visitor. As with the accouterments she wore on the plane, the Aboriginal Adult of the United States was communicating that for her, the absolute African agreeable is Disney’s Wild Kingdom.

Getty ImagesSAUL LOEB

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In Malawi, the aboriginal adult ashore to cinched biscuit dresses both for accession and to appointment a academy in Lilongwe. Pretty and appropriately restrained, I thought, for one of Africa’s poorest, best populated, and best resource-strapped countries, which is disturbing to accommodate apprenticeship and bloom affliction for its citizens and whose civic parks are alone aloof authoritative a bashful improvement afterwards actuality about absolutely depleted by deforestation and poaching.

FLOTUS did not strive for beam here; she was not costumed; and she looked comfortable. It was accessible on this leg of Trump’s cruise to focus on her amore and the 18-carat amusement she seemed to booty actuality about the kids—one of the added accustomed moments of her administration as aboriginal lady.

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Getty ImagesSAUL LOEB

The beastly affair roared aback aback Trump deplaned at Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in a white dress with a ablaze tropical-bird pattern. And she ancient in abundant the above way—in a blooming dress covered in biscuit silhouettes of antic rhinos, zebras, and flamingos.

It’s as if Brigitte Macron, the aboriginal adult of France, had accustomed in the United States dressed in cowboy boots and larboard cutting article fabricated of t printed with images of American addle and accoutrement evoking Native American headdresses.

It was as if Brigitte Macron, the aboriginal adult of France, had accustomed in the United States in article fabricated of t printed with images of American addle and accoutrement evoking Native American headdresses.

Back to the carnival accouterments that was Trump’s best for her appointment to a Kenyan abode and a d drive in Nairobi Civic Park—the above assembly helmet, additional white shirt, pants, and aerial boots.

Getty ImagesSAUL LOEB

“Melania’s assembly helmet fabricated us smile,” Pinto told me aback I asked him for the carnival veteran’s take. “She looked beautiful, of course, like a Ralph Lauren advertisement forth with those jodhpurs, but we haven’t apparent that attending in East Africa back Meryl Streep was filming Out of Africa 30 years ago!”

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In accession to the outdatedness (and the assembly helmet’s actual tone-deafness), there were applied problems with Trump’s outfit—reasons why you wouldn’t absolutely appetite to abrasion it on your own safari.

Take the benumbed boots. Chic, sure. And abundant if you’re activity on a benumbed safari. But otherwise, as any addition will know, aerial benumbed boots are not fabricated for accessible walking, or for jumping adroitly into and out of game-drive Landcruisers. You appetite athletic amber covering for abiding (it protects anxiety bigger than sneakers and camouflages dirt), but you appetite ankle-high.

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But conceivably the better affair in carnival abrasion is color. The acceptable hues—khakis, beige, and aerial carnival greens—were adopted for specific reasons. “Studies accept apparent that animals apprehension ablaze colors,” Pinto credibility out, “and our ambition on carnival is to be disregarded by wildlife.” (Interesting aside: “It is additionally believed that East African lions shy abroad aback they see the blush red, aimlessly fearing Maasai warriors who accept ter them for ancestors cutting red shukas.”)

White—the blush of Trump’s assembly helmet and shirt—is a no-no. For two reasons. First, white will bound appearance the dust and clay that gets kicked up by tires and alike while walking. Added importantly, it can be dangerous. As Cherri Briggs of Explore Africa (and continued my Africa biking whisperer) credibility out, “white, like ablaze colors, makes you angle out. And if you are answerable by an elephant, it will go for you in your whites rather than others dressed in desert-drab. You’ll be the easy-to-see target. White can assignment for cafeteria at the lodge—not on a drive.”

And the packing adage I like best is Joy Pinto’s, which she says works anywhere in Africa: “Light heart, ablaze luggage, lots of bangles.”

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Really, it works for everywhere.

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